Step back in time on a tour through Colfax County, where history, outdoor adventures, and family fun come together.
By Katy Kelleher
From the bullet-marked ceilings of St. James Hotel in Cimarrón to the wagon ruts of Ratón Pass, Colfax County is packed with tales, both tall and true. “We have so much history here, it’s just amazing,” says Patricia Duran, executive director at Raton MainStreet. “You can get the mountains of Colorado without the crowds and all the history of the Santa Fe Trail.”
At the northern end of the county, there’s Ratón. The former railroad town is decorated with several impressive Works Progress Administration murals from the 1930s (located in the Shuler Theater, Arthur Johnson Memorial Library, and the post office). A Hollywood-style sign built in the 1920s perches on Goat Hill Overlook. “From there, you can see all the mesas and volcanic fields around us—it’s a beautiful sight,” says Duran, who grew up in Ratón and likes to bring friends up in the evening when the sign is lit and blazing.
With much of the city built in the late 1800s and early 1900s, the county seat features an abundance of stately Victorian buildings to gaze at in the Ratón Downtown Historic District. The Colfax Ale Cellar, a family-friendly brewery with a pub menu (try the battered elote bites), can be found in the former Dwyer Building (once a department store and Masonic lodge), and the 111 Park Coffee Shop is housed in the former Silver Dollar Bar. “There are silver dollars in the floor,” Duran says.
A few miles away, Sugarite Canyon State Park was once home to a coal-mining camp and, before that, to Comanche, Ute, and Apache people. Wedged between two mesas, the park sits at 6,664 feet in elevation and includes miles of hiking trails and two lakes for fishing and water sports. In a joint project with the Nature Conservancy and Trust for Public Land, the park is planning to expand by adding the 2,200 acres of remarkable volcanic landscape known as Bartlett Mesa. “The hope is that we can connect to Colorado’s Fishers Peak State Park, which would be the first time ever that two state parks joined across state lines,” Duran says. Currently, 13 miles of trails wind through pine forests, seasonal wetlands, and around Lake Alice and Lake Maloya. Remnants of early-20th-century mines can be viewed from the Coal Camp Interpretive Trail, and an audio guide is available at the park’s visitor center.
From Ratón, US 64 runs south to Cimarrón on a stretch of road that makes up a third of the Santa Fe Trail National Scenic Byway. In Cimarrón, the historic St. James Hotel has hosted many infamous figures, including Buffalo Bill Cody, “Black Jack” Ketchum, and Jesse James. “A lot of people are convinced it’s haunted,” says Angel Fire tourism director Greg Ralph, who frequently sends tour groups to lunch with the so-called spirits. The on-site restaurant, Lambert’s, was founded more than 150 years ago by President Abraham Lincoln’s personal chef, Henry Lambert, and serves a combination of classic steakhouse dishes and Southwestern staples. New owners Chad and Alyse Mantz took over in 2024 and have updated the restaurant’s drinks program while reaching into the archives for historic recipes from the past.
In nearby Springer, the former Colfax County Courthouse houses the Santa Fe Trail Museum and Historical Society. The three-story building, built in 1881, features displays and memorabilia depicting the history of the trail and early settlers. Outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy the 3,700-acre Maxwell National Wildlife Refuge, which showcases short-grass prairie, playa lakes, and wetlands along the Central Flyway that brings more than 270 species of birds to the area.
Travelers looking to extend their stay can do like the locals and book a spot at one of four campgrounds at Cimarron Canyon State Park, which is nestled among the 300-to-400-foot vertical cliffs of the Palisades Sill. “It’s where everyone and their families go to fish,” Duran says of the stocked pond at Maverick Campground. “Catch some trout, gut ’em, and fry ’em for dinner.” With nearly 100 campsites available along a dramatic eight-mile stretch of river corridor, there’s plenty of space to spread out.
Twelve miles to the west sprawls the bright blue waters of Eagle Nest Lake State Park. Favored by anglers of all types, the clear waters are stocked each year with trout and salmon. (It’s also home to northern pike and yellow perch.) Ice fishing is a popular winter activity at Eagle Nest, and camping is available in the summer with a reservation.
For those seeking more elevated arrangements, Angel Fire Resort isn’t too far away. From downhill skiing in the winter to mountain biking in the summer, there’s plenty here to keep families active. Ralph suggests checking out the phenomenal Greenbelt Trails, a connected network of paths that range in difficulty, followed by a meal of charcuterie and cocktails at Elevated Pour. “We’ve been getting a lot of bird-watching recently,” he adds. “It’s exciting.”
Lastly, no visit to Angel Fire would be complete without a few minutes spent contemplating the majestic white swoop of the Vietnam Veterans Memorial. “It’s as quiet as can be, a very solemn experience,” Ralph says. “You’re captivated by the history and feeling of the place.”
